Decorative Baseboard: Molding and Painting in One Weekend (Step-by-Step Guide)
Want to add character to a flat wall without major work? Decorative plinths (moldings + two-tone paint) offer one of the best impact-to-effort ratios . In 48 hours, you can structure the space, protect the lower part of the walls, and create a “townhouse” or “boutique hotel” feel.
In this guide, we get to the essentials: material checklist , recommended heights , cutting plans , clean installation (glue/nails), invisible acrylic joint , and clean two-tone painting with tape. Simple mental diagrams, common mistakes to avoid, a budget/time table and professional tips for a straight, smooth and durable result.
- Equipment & preparation
- Step 1 — Plan, height & proportion
- Step 2 — Choose your moldings & calculate the quantities
- Step 3 — Tracing, Levels & Tapes
- Step 4 — 45° and blank cut
- Step 5 — Installing the moldings (glue + nails)
- Step 6 — Acrylic Seal & Fill
- Step 7 — Undercoat & two-tone paint
- Common mistakes to avoid
- Indicative budget & time
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Conclusion & Quick Memo
Equipment & preparation
Gather everything before you start. You'll go fast and straight.
- Moldings (MDF or high density polystyrene), top rail ( chair rail ) optional.
- Special polymer/MS glue for moldings + 30–40 mm nails/taps (or nail gun).
- Miter saw (manual with box or electric), square , meter , level/laser .
- Fine line quality painter's tape , acrylic cartridge (paintable), fine coating .
- Primer (MDF/plaster undercoat), wall paint (top), satin paint (bottom).
- 5–8 mm microfiber rollers , edging brush , tray, mixer, microfiber cloth.
- P120–P180 for gentle sanding, vacuum cleaner , gloves & goggles.
Step 1 — Plan, height & proportion
Choosing the right height
Two benchmarks that work in 90% of cases: 90–110 cm from the floor (classic look), or ~1/3 of the ceiling height (if high ceilings). At the head of the bed, you can go up to 120–130 cm to anchor the bed.
Modules (frames) : Leave 8–12 cm between frames, and 4–6 cm between frame and corner/doorjamb. Keep close proportions across the wall for a smooth reading.
Composition tip: Center a module on the bed/console rather than on the wall if nothing is square. This is the object that provides the visual cue.
Step 2 — Choose your moldings & calculate the quantities
MDF : clean edges, paints perfectly, affordable. HD polystyrene/PU : ultra-light, not straight walls, easy to glue. 10–15 mm thick section for an elegant finish without being “squashed”.
Step 3 — Tracing, Levels & Tapes
Horizon line
Trace the top line of the base with a laser or level, and go around the room. Mask this line with painter's tape (top edge of the tape on the future top color).
Axes & modules
Locate the central axes (bed, window, console) then position your frames with a pencil. Temporarily place pieces of molding to visually check the spacing.
Pro tip: Rub the edge of the tape with your fingernail (or a plastic spatula) to “seal” it before painting.
Step 4 — 45° and blank cut
Clean tabs
Cut at 45° for each frame corner. Do a rough assembly on the floor: adjust as long as the joints are firm and regular. Number the pieces (e.g.: C1-Top, C1-Bottom).
Light sanding
A P180 on the cuts will make the joint invisible after painting.
Step 5 — Installing the moldings (glue + nails)
Smudge-free bonding
A zigzag bead of polymer glue on the back, place on the line, press for 10 seconds. Two points per end and one in the middle to flatten while it sets.
High rail (option)
If you are installing a picture rail, start with it: once level, it will guide all the frames underneath. Cut the internal/external angles at 45°.
Step 6 — Acrylic Seal & Fill
Apply a thin layer of acrylic along the moldings (inside/outside), smooth with a slightly dampened finger. Fill the nail heads with thin filler, sand once dry, and dust off.
Acrylic is your best friend: it erases micro-defects and gives a “factory” finish. Wait for the indicated drying time before painting.
Step 7 — Undercoat & two-tone paint
Primary
Apply an undercoat to MDF/moldings and coated areas. It evens out absorption and improves adhesion.
Bottom painting
Paint the underbody (including the moldings) in satin or velvet (more resistant to rubbing). Two thin coats with a microfiber roller.
Top painting
Paint the top of the wall (matte/velvet). For a clean line : first run a veil of the top color along the tape, let it stretch, then paint your bottom color. Remove the tape at a 45° angle when it is barely dry to the touch .
Indicative coverage: ~10 m²/L per coat. Allow 2 coats on each color for a full finish.
Removing the masking tape revealing a clean paint line at the decorative underlay.
To complete the look, add a beige rug at the base of the feature wall: its soft hue softens the transition between the colored baseboard and the parquet flooring, while warming the atmosphere. The beige rug works with most palettes (sage green, storm blue, taupe) and highlights the moldings without stealing the show. Choose a looped or woven jute texture depending on the style, and a size that leaves 10–20 cm of air space around the furniture to keep the composition light.
Common mistakes to avoid
Random height : a wavy line is immediately visible. Laser tracing required.
Low-end tape : smears. Take a "fine line" tape and seal it well.
Open corners : without dry mounting, the 45° angles will spread. Adjust before gluing.
No primer : absorption stains and differences in shine. An undercoat = perfect finish.
Too thick a layer : drips. Apply multiple thin layers.
Indicative budget & time
| Item | Detail | Indicative cost | Time | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Moldings + rail | MDF/PU ~20–25 linear m | 70–140 € | 1–2 h cutting | +10% margin |
| Glue + tips | 2–3 cartridges + 1 box | 15–30 € | 1 hour pose | Polymer/MS |
| Acrylic + coating | Finishing joints & heads | 10–20 € | 45 min + drying | Paintable |
| Paintings | Top (matte) + bottom (satin) | 60–120 € | 2 × 1 h | 2 layers |
| Tools/consumables | Ribbons, rollers, brush | 20–40 € | — | Quality = clean edges |
| Total | — | 175–350 € | ~1 weekend | Depending on the finish |
Indicative cost, varies depending on brand and surface area. Expect to pay more if you equip the workshop (electric miter saw, nail gun, etc.).
Frequently Asked Questions
What surface does it work on? Plasterboard, plaster, painted concrete. Make sure the original paint adheres: lightly wash, then prime if unsure.
Should you paint before or after installing the moldings? Apply the primer , then paint the whole thing: it's more even and the joints disappear.
What if my wall isn't straight? Use PU moldings (more flexible), glue in a continuous bead, and fill with acrylic. Aim for overall clarity , not millimeter perfection.
Satin, velvet, or matte? Bottom : satin/velvet (resistant to abrasion). Top : matte/velvet (chic effect, hides imperfections).
Colors: How to choose? Effective classics: dark bottoms (sage green, storm blue, taupe) / light tops (off-white, ivory). Stick to a short 60/30/10 palette .
Conclusion & Quick Memo
1) Draw the line at 90–110 cm (or 1/3 of the wall) and validate your spacing. 2) Cut at 45° and mount dry. 3) Glue + tack, then acrylic for invisible joints. 4) Undercoat, then two-tone (satin at the bottom, matte at the top). 5) Remove the tape at 45° almost dry for a perfect edge.
Article updated in September 2025